Uttar Pradesh, India · Travel guide
Varanasi travel guide
One of the world's oldest living cities, on the banks of the Ganga.
- Best time
- Oct - Mar
- A day, mid-range
- ₹3,500-6,000 per person
- Getting there
- Air · Train
- Ready-made trips
- 1 itinerary
Varanasi (Kashi, Banaras) has been continuously inhabited for over 3,000 years and is Hinduism's holiest city. Its 80-plus ghats line the western bank of the Ganga, where pilgrims bathe at dawn and cremations take place day and night at Manikarnika.
Behind the river lies a maze of narrow lanes, temples and food stalls, and just north is Sarnath, where the Buddha gave his first sermon.
When to go
Best time to visit Varanasi
October to March, with foggy, atmospheric winter mornings. Dev Deepawali in November lights every ghat.
- Jan: Best
- Feb: Best
- Mar: Best
- Apr: Avoid
- May: Avoid
- Jun: Avoid
- Jul: Avoid
- Aug: Avoid
- Sep: Avoid
- Oct: Best
- Nov: Best
- Dec: Best
- Oct - MarCool and pleasant; Dev Deepawali in November
- Apr - JunVery hot
- Jul - SepMonsoon flooding can close ghats and boat rides
Getting there
How to reach Varanasi
- Air
- Lal Bahadur Shastri Airport (VNS) is about 25 km from the ghats.
- Train
- Varanasi Junction and Banaras stations, with the Vande Bharat from Delhi in about 8 hours.
- Getting around
- Walk along the ghats; e-rickshaws and cycle-rickshaws in the city; boats between ghats.
Where to stay
Where to stay in Varanasi
Assi Ghat
Relaxed southern end with cafés and guesthouses.
Dashashwamedh area
Central, close to the main aarti and temples.
Ghat-front palaces
Heritage hotels like BrijRama right on the river.
What to see
Top things to do in Varanasi
- 01
Dashashwamedh Ghat Ganga Aarti
The city's grand evening fire ritual by seven priests.
Watch from a boat to avoid the crush.
Open in Maps - 02
Sunrise boat ride
A dawn row along the ghats as the city wakes.
Agree the price and route first.
Open in Maps - 03
Kashi Vishwanath Temple
The golden-spired Shiva temple, reached by the new corridor.
Phones and bags aren't allowed inside.
Open in Maps - 04
Sarnath
The deer park of the Buddha's first sermon, with the Dhamek Stupa.
The museum is closed on Fridays.
Open in Maps - 05
Manikarnika Ghat
The main cremation ghat, burning day and night.
No photography; observe respectfully.
Open in Maps - 06
Ramnagar Fort
The Maharaja of Banaras's 18th-century fort and museum across the river.
Go late afternoon.
Open in Maps - 07
Assi Ghat
The southern ghat with a morning Subah-e-Banaras programme and evening aarti.
Morning yoga and music start around 5 AM.
Open in Maps
What to eat
What to eat in Varanasi
Kachori sabzi
The classic Banarasi breakfast.
Lassi
Thick and topped with malai, at Blue Lassi and others.
Malaiyo
Saffron milk foam, only made in winter.
Banarasi paan
The famous betel-leaf digestive.
Tamatar chaat
A spicy, tangy tomato chaat unique to the city.
What it costs
Varanasi trip cost per day
Backpacker
₹1,200-2,000
per person, per day
Hostel, walking, street food
Mid-range
₹3,500-6,000
per person, per day
Ghat-view hotel, boats, guides
Comfort
₹15,000+
per person, per day
Heritage palace hotel
- Never photograph cremations.
- Expect touts at the ghats; politely decline unwanted guides.
- Wear slip-on shoes; you'll remove them often at temples.
Good questions
Varanasi travel FAQs
How many days are enough for Varanasi?
Two days covers the ghats at dawn and dusk, the old city and Sarnath; three is more relaxed.
What time is the Ganga Aarti?
Around sunset, about 6:00-7:00 PM depending on the season, at Dashashwamedh and Assi ghats.
Is Varanasi safe for tourists?
Yes, with normal precautions; crowds and touts are the main nuisance.
When is Dev Deepawali?
On the full moon of Kartik (usually November), when the ghats are lit with over a million lamps.